Camryn Durham, Ashley Logan, Jarrett Lemieux, Natalie Parks
In 1903, Kenyan agriculture was revolutionized after the introduction of tea into the market. Quickly, it was realized that the Kenyan climate was perfect for producing tea and bountiful in all seasons. As interest in tea grew amongst people globally, commercial developers began to establish large farms in 1924. Colonial farmers remained the primary growers of tea until 1954, when African growers were allowed to plant tea (Tea Board of Kenya). While the production landscape has grown and shifted over the last 100 years, the harvesting process has remained the same. Tea picking is a craft as pickers know which part of the plant produces different flavors and types of tea. In recent years, there have been attempts to introduce machinery to harvest the tea and trim bushes. However, this process is harmful to the long-term production of crops, so many farmers continue harvesting with tea pickers instead of machines.
The Kiambethu Tea Farm is a 5-generation, family-owned tea farm that started in 1918. First owned by Arnold B. McDonell, he originally planted the tea on a few acres of land, where he found conditions for growing the plant were just right. (Nicholls). Over the years, the farm has consolidated from 350 acres to simply two due to the physical demand of the tea industry. After swearing to her mother that she would not run the farm, Fiona Vernon has been doing tours of the farm and forest areas, tea tastings, and lunch for guests since 1998.
The Kiambethu farm employs skilled pickers who take contracts with different small farms to fill their schedule. Tea in Kenya is picked every two weeks and grows year-round in the warm weather and plentiful rain. With the two acres of land that the family has retained, the family hires six pickers who come for one day every two weeks to pick from the tea bushes. This tea is carefully picked to avoid oxidation until it is sent to the factory later that day. Though this work is traditionally done by hand (and still is practiced that way in most of the farms here) due to the delicate nature of tea leaves, Fiona explained to us that machines have been developed which can pick tea, but that it is less precise and results in poorer quality teas. Despite the drawbacks, she said she noticed some farms transitioning and worries for the future of tea in Nairobi and the jobs it creates.
Unions are an important piece for this workforce – at the beginning of the season, the union negotiates the pay for pickers (who are paid per weight for the tea they collect) and even those who work outside the union because of the competition the union offers. The process is similar for factory weight prices that are paid to the farm owners, the unions and factory negotiate annually, with a bonus given at the end of the year based on auction rates. These factories are staffed 24/7 due to the sensitive nature of tea, which oxidizes quickly and is heat dried to immobilize the enzymes before it is sorted into grades. The grades reflect the quality of the tea based on how fine it is, how many stems are present, or large leaves. The batches with more stems are often mixed with finer teas and kept for domestic consumption (Kenya loves chai!), and the higher quality teas are sent to Mombasa where it is auctioned to set the price for export to countries like England, Pakistan, and places all over the world.
Arable land in Kenya is essential to the economy as it is a means of income and livelihood for many families, especially those who grow and harvest tea. However, there are many historical injustices of land acquisition and ownership. In the context of the Kiambethu Tea Farm, the land was given to the McDonell family by a royal decree from the British commonwealth. While the family has lived on this land for five generations, it is important to recognize the complex history of land ownership in Kenya and other parts of Africa (Githinji, 2021).
This is also extremely important when considering the large economic impact that tea farming has on Kenyans. Many Kenyans, whether tea pickers or tea farm owners, rely on the crop for their livelihood. The tea auction and port in Mombasa is also a large part of the Kenyan economy. Tea from countries around Africa, including Kenya, South Africa, Uganda, Tanzania, and others are sent to Mombasa to be sold and exported. It is vital that all parties are paid equitably for their work and educated on overcoming challenges in agriculture. Climate change and subsequent changing weather patterns are important components when thinking about the vitality and sustainability of the tea industry. It is also important to note that climate change affects vulnerable populations more severely than other communities.
Similarly, social determinants of health directly affect Kenyan tea farmers. Earnings from tea farming can be volatile, and though there is a union to address these issues, not all farms are a part of the union. Climate change and fluctuating prices also influence financial stability and overall well-being of farmers and tea pickers. It is also important that farmers have access to education regarding best practices and fair labor as the work force changes and farming practices have to adapt to a changing climate.
At the Kiambethu farm, Steven, our resident Kenyan guide, led us on a walk through the property’s indigenous forest and identified various plants and trees that were traditionally used as herbal remedies. Among them were the Citronella plant, the Waterberry tree, and the Piper plant. Most of us recognize Citronella as the citrus-smelling ingredient commonly used in insect repellent candles and sprays, but according to Steven, it has more beneficial uses. It provides antioxidant and antimicrobial properties for overall health, as well as aiding in detoxification and immune function. It may come as a surprise to know that the same plant used to ward off pesky insects can also be used to inhibit the growth of harmful bacteria. Steven then drew our attention to the Waterberry, whose bark, when boiled, is used to treat serious life-threatening diseases like malaria, tuberculosis, and venereal diseases, or even common ailments like diarrhea, indigestion, or stomach aches. The tree’s leaf pulp is also reported to have antibacterial, antifungal, antiparasitic, and anti-inflammatory pharmacological properties that contribute to its health benefits (Dharani, 2016). The leaf extract, when mixed with water, can even be used as eyedrops to treat ophthalmia.
Next, Steven pointed out the Cypress tree, with a nest of small black termites formed at the top of it. He explained that when these termites create a nest at the top of a tree, they often kill off parts of the branches. In traditional medicine, it is said that the Cypress tree is used to treat respiratory conditions and the common cold. However, until recent years, little scientific evidence supported these claims (Orhan et al., 2015). Finally, the root of the Piper plant is used in postpartum treatment for women. When dried, prepared, and consumed as a tea, it can help women deliver the placenta after childbirth as well as regain their strength (Salehi, 2019)
Our time spent at the Kiambethu Tea Farm was both enjoyable and informative. Tasting the freshly made teas and learning about the history of the family-owned farm gave us insight into the labor-intensive process that produces this highly demanded good. Many factors play into the production of this highly exported product, which provides opportunities to improve economic, social, and health outcomes for Kenyan citizens. Learning about the history of herbal medicine also gave us a better understanding of the rich cultural heritage of traditional healers in Kenya. The history of agriculture from colonial times to present-day Kenya has remained relatively unchanged over several generations. The conservative nature of this process contributes to the manufacturing of tea that many of us know and love today.
References:
Business Daily. (Dec 2020). Pioneer Tea Farm a Major Hit with Nature Lovers. https://www.businessdailyafrica.com/bd/lifestyle/society/pioneer-tea-farm-a-major-hit-with-nature-lovers–1998698
Dharani, N. (May 2016). A Review of Traditional Uses and Phytochemical Constituents of Indigenous Syzygium Species in East Africa. ResearchGate from https://www.researchgate.net/publication/305380033_A_Review_of_Traditional_Uses_and_Phytochemical_Constituents_of_Indigenous_Syzygium_Species_in_East_Africa
Githinji. (Jan 2021). Colonial Practices and Land Injustices in Kenya. AfroCare. Retrieved from https://blog.afro.co.ke/colonial-policies-land-injustices-in-kenya/.
History of kenyan tea. Tea Board of Kenya. (n.d.). https://www.teaboard.or.ke/kenya-tea/history-of-kenyan-tea
Orhan, I. E., & Tumen, I. (2015). Potential of Cupressus sempervirens (Mediterranean Cypress) in Health. The Mediterranean Diet, 639–647. https://doi.org/10.1016/B978-0-12-407849-9.00057-9
Salehi, B. (2019). Piper Species: A Comprehensive Review on Their Phytochemistry, Biological Activities and Applications. Molecules (Basel, Switzerland), 24(7), 1364. https://doi.org/10.3390/molecules24071364
Nicholls. (Oct 2019). Tea and Lemuru School. https://oldafricamagazine.com/tea-and-limuru-school/
